Amritsar – Part 2 of 3 – Jallianwala Bagh Massacre

While the border ceremony was amazing and the Golden Temple (next post) were certainly the two highlights of our trip to Amritsar…I feel the need to give some attention to the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre (hereafter referred to as the Massacre) given some recent goings-on in the United States. I won’t get deep in to the history (go to the links if you’re curious), but given the violation of our civil rights by the Patriot Act in the name of terrorism prevention, the recent news coverage of non-violent protests against militarized police in Ferguson, and American’s general lack of awareness of other nations’ independence stories – I think this is as good a time as any to spend some time on it and hopefully provoke some thought.

Unbeknownst to many Americans, India was subjected to British colonial rule until just after World War II (1947) for period of almost 200 years. From 1757 – 1858, the country was ruled by the East India Trading Company as a joint-stock colony and regulated by Parliament and thus as a virtual agent of the British government. From 1858 – 1947, ownership of India was transferred to the British government – a time period known as the British Raj. By 1919, when the massacre took place, there had already been a rebellion and multiple mutinies in the armed forces. The British landed gentry were highly paranoid at this point in history.

They responded by passing the Rowlatt Act in March 1919 which basically indefinitely extended “emergency measures” to remove the civil and due process rights of the citizens of the British Raj. The intention was to control public unrest, effectively authorizing the government to imprison any person suspected of terrorism living in the Raj for up to two years without a trial, and gave the imperial authorities power to deal with all revolutionary activities.

Mohandas Gandhi, among other Indian leaders, was extremely critical of the Act and argued that not everyone should get punishment in response to isolated political crimes. The Act annoyed many Indian leaders and the public, which caused the government to implement repressive measures. Gandhi and others found that constitutional opposition to the measure was fruitless, so on April 6, a “hartal” was organised where Indians would suspend all business and fast as a sign of their opposition. Gandhi named the Rowlatt Act as “black act”.

On April 13th, 1919 a crowd of non-violent protesters gathered in Amritsar to protest the Rowlatt Act – ignoring a curfew which had been implemented by the local authorities. Soliders and police gathered and fired live ammunition on the unarmed crowd under the order of General Dyer, killing over 1200 protesters according to Indian figures. The official British figures were 379 dead and 1100 wounded, but the ineffectual inquiry in Parliament and lack of punishment for General Dyer enraged the Indian nation – creating what would be a huge moment in the India independence movement. Any of this sound familiar?

Some documentation:

The Entrance

Memorializing the protesters

Depiction of the armed soldiers firing on the crowd

Bullet holes still clearly present

Many protesters ran in a panic to an incredibly deep well to escape the British bullets

As we were walking around, a school teacher approached us and asked where we were from. Upon learning that we were Americans he excitedly called his class over and thanked us for being interested in Indian history. This was actually extremely common in Amritsar and Sikhs were even more excited to share their religion and beautiful Golden Temple, but more on that later. He reminded his class that United States of America was once a British colony just like India which strangely gave us a common kinship. The lesson to his class was clear – not everyone had a choice of being a former colony but the most powerful nation of the world overcame that to become what we are today. Pretty cool.

Not to get too sentimental, but it’s a stark reminder that the escape from a colonial master (in this case specifically British) is not a uniquely American experience. Every former colony has their heroes (George Washington), mythologies (crossing the frozen Potomac), seminal moments (Boston Massacre), and great stories (Paul Revere). It’s mind blowing that almost a full 200 years after American independence, the Brits still ruled a colonial area which today numbers well over 1.5 billion people (today’s India / Pakistan / Bangladesh).

A quick comparison:

Jallianwalla Bagh Massacre – 1919 – Protesting the Rowlatt Act

Boston Massacre – 1770 – Protesting the Townshend Acts

If anything, it’s a reminder that the right to peaceably assemble – given irrevocably by the First Amendment to the United States Constitution – is one of the most cherished rights in Western-style democracy and must be defended and safeguarded. Part of that is choosing to remember what happens when government tries to take that away in the name of terrorism / order / defense / whatever excuse.

Next – on to a lighter topic: the Sikh people and the Golden Temple!